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GESM 120 | Catherine the Great

class guide for spring 2023 | Erica Camisa Morale, PhD

There are three articles by Dr. Viktoria Ivleva, a professor at Durham University. She has a Google Scholar profile. There are also two articles from an open access scholarly journal, Вивлioѳика: E-Journal of Eighteenth-Century Russian Studies.

BOOKS

Fashion in Detail : From the 17th and 18th Centuries by Avril Hart and Susan North

  • We selected this source because it had very detailed descriptions and analysis of the dress styles that Catherine is portrayed in. We learned that, in the portrait we are analyzing, the square-shaped dress originated form England and Russian court members used to wear. A large hoop was required to sustain the gown, closed-front bodice, waist-seam and sleeves. Overall, Catherine's clothing was not traditionally Russian but took inspiration from western European styles of dress.

Russian Splendor : Sumptuous Fashions of the Russian Court by Mikhail Borisovich Piotrovskiĭ

  • We selected this source because it details the color choice of light-blue and silver. We learned that Empress Elizaveta made similar style choices. We can infer that the mentorship relationship between the two woman applied to fashion as well. These colors and other style choices were chosen to highlight their features. Catherine was "snow-white" skin toned so she wore light-blues and silvers. The colors also resemble the color of diamonds, and diamonds and other jewels were sewn on to the clothing. This is done to stand out from the crown and display the wealth of the monarchy.
  • This book and Reading Catherine's Portraits discuss her reflection on Russia as well as the history of the portrait. The source also discusses the significance of the military wear and breaking gender roles. The book discusses Catherine's reference of the history of Peter the Great.

BOOK CHAPTERS

Coup D’état as Cross-Dressing in Creating the Empress : Politics and Poetry in the Age of Catherine by Vera Proskurina

  • This source references Catherine's coup d'état of the Russian monarchy, and how she uses cross-dressing to help overcome the stigma of being a female ruler. The source addressed not only the outfit of Catherine the Great, but also adornments that appeared in the portrait of Catherine on horseback.

Self, Society and Gender in Early Modern Russia and Eastern Europe by Nancy Shields Kollmann, a chapter in A Companion to Gender History edited by Teresa A. Meade and Merry E. Wiesner-Hanks

  • We selected this source due how specific it is towards research question. We learned that women, educated or not, were seen as housewives or maids. They were never seen as people who could rule.

The Vanguard in The Russian Canvas : Painting in Imperial Russia, 1757-1881 by Rosalind P. Blakesley

  • We selected this source because it provided insight on the artist of the portrait as well as the techniques and ideas he used in order to create this painting. We learned about the perspective of the artist and his use of more western European techniques to create a powerful image between humans and nature, whilst also connecting it to Russian society specifically by using the figure of Catherine the Great. This painting allowed for her to become more relatable to the people as well as portray an image of power along with the previously mentioned intentions.
  • We found that the painter Levitskii was influenced by the Enlightenment ideas. In the painting, the scepter symbolizes Catherine defeating Peter. The way she was able to overpower him was by using ideas from the Enlightenment.

War and Enlightenment in Russia : Military Culture in the Age of Catherine II by Eugene Miakinkov

  • Large book with a lot of information on military standards in Russia and how it was influenced by the enlightenment and was during the rule of Catherine the Great.

ARTICLES

Catherine II as Female Ruler : The Power of Enlightened Womanhood by Victoria Ivleva in Вивлioѳика: E-Journal of Eighteenth-Century Russian Studies from 2015 (volume 3)

  • We selected this source because there was information about the two sides that are represented; one side being a woman of law, and another being a woman of class in high society. The femininity represented is the woman who she shows normally and the version of herself that persuaded the public as innocent and the other depiction of her is the woman who she developed from her pride and represents newfound power as the rule of Russia.

Catherine II: Uniform Dresses and Regional Uniforms by Viktoria Ivleva in Costume from 2019 (volume 53, issue 2)

  • Based on the abstract, I believe the source does a good job of analyzing the cross-dressing and uniform dresses Catherine the Great wore for various occasions. It also discusses the uniforms in the context of the national processes and events in 18th century Europe. I briefly learned that in this specific equestrian portrait, Catherine wore this uniform (the Life Guard's uniform) during the coup that dethroned her husband, Peter III. The article itself goes into further detail as to the "why."

For Catherine, Art Symbolized Power by Christopher Andreae in The Christian Science Monitor from 09 November 2005

  • We selected this source because it discusses how Rokotov painted this full length version of Catherine based on an image that was already illustrated of her. In this way, Rokotov is creating this image of Catherine based on an idealized version of her that was already painted which give it a timeless feel. This source also talks about how portraiture was used during this time to transform a person into the image of an "icon", which Catherine was greatly interested in to validate her rule.

From Catherine II's Coup to Alexander Pushkin's The Captain's Daughter : A Reflection on Sartorial and Spiritual Searching in Russian Culture by Victoria Ivleva in Вивлioѳика: E-Journal of Eighteenth-Century Russian Studies from 2020 (volume 8)

  • We learned how the light plays into the meaning of the portrait, and what it says about Catherine. The source offered a unique perspective on what the piece says about time, and how it portrays Catherine’s place in Russia at this time.

If I Were a Woman : Feminism Versus Cultural Patriarchy in Russia by Victor Tupitsyn in Third Text from Autumn 1997 (issue 40)

  • This source encapsulates both elements of femininity and patriarchy and how female rulers during that time period begin to challenge existing social norms such as the masculinity of power. Specifically, women in art was deliberately androgynized* to reflect the transition from traditional female roles to all-inclusive liberal power. *This article suggests the shift to androgynized representation happens after 1917.